An Afghan Adventure

The Scottish journalist, Rory Stewart's death-defying walk from Herat to Kabul in 36 days during the peak of the Afghan winter, is chronicled in The Places In Between. Stewart risked his life on two counts - he could freeze to death (which he almost did), or be killed by a local tribesman (which almost happened). The book is simple in its structure and message. Written in the aftermath of 9/11, the author explores the fragmented politics, communities, and religion and customs of Afghanistan. In the process, he emphasizes how superficial the world's understanding is of this poverty-stricken country.

Stewart follows the route taken by India's first Mughal emperor, Babur 500 years ago. He shares Babur's experiences of the bitter winter, and his interaction with various communities on the way, such as the Hazara, an ancient Mongol tribe. The author intermittently quotes from the emperor's "autobiography" as their thoughts and experiences mirror each other's.

The book is also the story of the touching relationship that develops between Stewart and a dog, which he names Babur. For much of the journey, Babur is his only companion.

I was far more impressed by this book that I was by Theroux's South American journey in the Patagonian Express. Theroux may be a more subtle writer, but Stewart's journey is hard to fathom, and his clear, crisp and powerful writing is a treat to read. Ironically, a friend of mine gave it to me in London, to ease my pain when I was reading Theroux's book.